Tigers protection now has celebrity power! Leonardo DiCaprio has joined WWF's program in protecting the tigers! Read more about it here http://www.worldwildlife.org/savetigersnow/.
The site in still unclear on how the Fund is going to work towards tiger protection. Hopefully we will get some more updates in this regard soon.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Bandhavgarh tigress death
The last week came the news that a tigress had died at Bandhavgarh due to internal injuries which were probably caused due to being hit by a vehicle. There are stories abound that it was caused by either a tourist vehicle or a vehicle taking VIPs for a safari.
In my various safaris I have seen the jeep drivers at safaris drive at very high speeds across the terrain in their zeal to ensure that their guests see a tiger. Nothing wrong in the driver and the guide taking all steps to ensure that their guests see the king of the jungle. However, it should not be at the cost of safety of the guests and the animals. In my trip at ranthambore over the last weekend (yes I know trip report is due!) I had jeep driver who almost drove into sambar deers, peacocks and langurs. The older sambar deers generally were able to make it past, but on a couple of occasions, we passed right between the herd separating the junior members of the herd from the older ones at high speed. In the hot weather, the sambars were anyway seemed tired due to lack of water in the forest, the last thing they need is to have their stress levels increased by on rushing jeeps. On multiple occasions, we almost treaded on the beautiful tail of the peacock. The problem is that the drivers of the jeeps assume that the animal will move out of the way. This should never be the case. The animals should have the right to way in their own jungle.
Speeding is just one of the problems in our safaris. In their hurry to ensure that their guests see tigers, I have often seen that moment a jeep figures out that a tiger is in the vicinity, signals are sent to all the other jeeps in the zone. The tiger is then completely encircled and not permitted to move. I experienced this first hand at Bandhavgarh in April beginning. A tiger (named Kalua) emerged from the cliffs and instantly it was surrounded by at least 14 jeeps and 2 canters. It was clear it was looking to cross the road across to the other side of the forest. However as it got no space at all, it was forced sit and stare at the jeeps.
Above is the picture at Ranthambore taken sometime last year, where the tiger was expected on the bushes on the right hand side. Again there were some twenty jeeps, canters which had surrounded the area. This time around, the tiger was nervous enough not to make an appearance.
I am in no way suggesting that tiger tourism be banned. However, it needs to be regulated. The zone system implemented at Ranthambore and Bandhavgarh are a great idea. However, it is not exactly serve the purpose as the no. of jeeps are too high and also there are no ways to monitor the movement of jeeps to ensure that they are following the allotted routes. In Ranthambore, the jeeps had originally been affixed with GPS trackers, but now I understand that the GPS tracking systems have been taken off. This problem is very acute in the "peak" winter season, when the parks are full with tourists.
A way out of this could be to add more time zones between the morning and evening time zones for the safari and reduce the number of jeeps permitted for each safari. However, this is a layman's observation, not sure whether it will actually work.
While it may be easy for me right now to blame lack of regulation of jeep safaris in the park, the thing is it is the guests like me and you who push the safaris guides and drivers to cut corners, rush from one place to another in search for the tiger. In this often people miss out on the other attractions of the. I met a gentlemen at a national park recently. He had followed a leopard for ten minutes of the road had great pictures but was cursing the driver for failing to show him a tiger!
We desperately need to educate people that while tiger being the national animal is of couse the more prominent resident of our forests, the Indian wildlife is very diverse and there is a beauty even in a 'common' neelgai. It is true that beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder! To be continued!
In my various safaris I have seen the jeep drivers at safaris drive at very high speeds across the terrain in their zeal to ensure that their guests see a tiger. Nothing wrong in the driver and the guide taking all steps to ensure that their guests see the king of the jungle. However, it should not be at the cost of safety of the guests and the animals. In my trip at ranthambore over the last weekend (yes I know trip report is due!) I had jeep driver who almost drove into sambar deers, peacocks and langurs. The older sambar deers generally were able to make it past, but on a couple of occasions, we passed right between the herd separating the junior members of the herd from the older ones at high speed. In the hot weather, the sambars were anyway seemed tired due to lack of water in the forest, the last thing they need is to have their stress levels increased by on rushing jeeps. On multiple occasions, we almost treaded on the beautiful tail of the peacock. The problem is that the drivers of the jeeps assume that the animal will move out of the way. This should never be the case. The animals should have the right to way in their own jungle.
Above is the picture at Ranthambore taken sometime last year, where the tiger was expected on the bushes on the right hand side. Again there were some twenty jeeps, canters which had surrounded the area. This time around, the tiger was nervous enough not to make an appearance.
I am in no way suggesting that tiger tourism be banned. However, it needs to be regulated. The zone system implemented at Ranthambore and Bandhavgarh are a great idea. However, it is not exactly serve the purpose as the no. of jeeps are too high and also there are no ways to monitor the movement of jeeps to ensure that they are following the allotted routes. In Ranthambore, the jeeps had originally been affixed with GPS trackers, but now I understand that the GPS tracking systems have been taken off. This problem is very acute in the "peak" winter season, when the parks are full with tourists.
A way out of this could be to add more time zones between the morning and evening time zones for the safari and reduce the number of jeeps permitted for each safari. However, this is a layman's observation, not sure whether it will actually work.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Corbett Safaris
One of the advantages of staying in Delhi is the proximity to Corbett and Ranthambore.
Corbett, situated at the foothills of the himalayas, is the most picturesque of the national parks I have visited. I have been to Corbett thrice and never have I felt "why again". With my legendary luck at sighting tigers, I had tiger sightings on each of my trips!
You can book FRH dhikala here. Generally one is given only with 2 nite stay at best. Be warned to book Dhikala FRH at least a month in advance if you are targeting a weekend or any of the cluster holidays.
Though the most famous, Dhikala is not the only FRH in Corbett in fact far from it. Corbett is divided into zones and each zone has a gate:
Tourism zone Entry Gate
Dhikala Dhangari
Jhirna Khara,Kalagarh
Bijrani Amadanda
Sonanadi Vatanvasa
Domunda Durgadevi
The Dhikala Zone itself has many FRHs such as Kinnanauli, Gairal, Sarapdhuli etc. If you do not get bookings, you could check with Field Director, Corbet Tiger Reserve Uttaranchal, Ramnagar (Nainital) - 244715.Tel. : 05947-251489, 251376, 251012 for any of the other FRH in Dhikala zone (or about the FRHs at any of the other zones).
Easiest way to get from Delhi to Cobett is by a cab. It is approximately at 5 hour drive (depending at what time you leave and whether you hit any jams). It takes considerably longer in the winter months. Driving to corbett at nite during winter is a dangerous proposition. You should ensure that the taxi has very strong fog lamps. Last winter's travel to corbett from Delhi took me around 10 hours. For three hours we just could not drive as the fog was so heavy, even with three heads outside the window (feeling the cold winter air), we could not see anything ahead of us. The best advice while driving through for is to follow a truck or a bus. On the road you often find huge trucks turned turtle, which remind you how severely a mistake on the road can be punished. An approximate route map is provided here.
When you are in corbett, you realise how tough it is to spot a tiger. The forest here is a thick forest full of sal trees and thick undergrowth. So if you spot a tiger, you are really lucky!
A great thing about corbett is the elephant ride through the jungle. You come closer to the wildlife than any jeep or canter you may have been on. Being higher than everything other than the trees gives you a panoramic view. As the elephant does not have to stick to the road and instead moves in and out of the thick forest undergrowth with consummate ease, you experience the forest in a completely new way. Also the tigers are used to elephants and are permit you to come closer than most jeeps. Most photographs of tigers from elephant enable you to capture them in their natural beauty as opposed to the road (if you were on a jeep). However, as far as I know, elephant rides are available only if you are staying at any of the FRH only. If you are staying at the Dhikala bookings for jeep and elephant safaris are right at the FRH itself.
If however, you are staying at any of the resorts outside the gates, the bookings are done at the Forest offices at Ramnagar. Your resort will help you do the bookings for the same and you do not need to pre-book these safaris. These safaris are mainly for the bijrani zone and not the dhikala zone. There is a canter which takes you on a tour of dhikala (which is a tour not a safari).
Climate wise Corbett is cold in the winter months. U need lots of woolens as if you are staying at the FRH you should not be expecting heaters to warm your rooms! The cold continues even to end march at least for the morning safaris.
Corbett, situated at the foothills of the himalayas, is the most picturesque of the national parks I have visited. I have been to Corbett thrice and never have I felt "why again". With my legendary luck at sighting tigers, I had tiger sightings on each of my trips!
I have stayed at the FRH Dhikala and also at the resorts just outside the park. Without a shade of a doubt, to experience forest one has to stay at the FRH in Dhikala. However, if eating vegetarian food and sleeping on a questionable bread spread with frequent electricity outages thrown in is not your thing, you may consider putting up at the resorts by the side of Kosi River which will provide you with all luxuries. However, with all its discomforts I will still recommend Dhikala as your place to stay. For one it is deep inside the forest, whereas the resorts are outside the gate. Just staying there and listening to the sounds of the forest at night is an experience to treasure even if you do not meet the king of the jungle.
You can book FRH dhikala here. Generally one is given only with 2 nite stay at best. Be warned to book Dhikala FRH at least a month in advance if you are targeting a weekend or any of the cluster holidays.
Though the most famous, Dhikala is not the only FRH in Corbett in fact far from it. Corbett is divided into zones and each zone has a gate:
A great thing about corbett is the elephant ride through the jungle. You come closer to the wildlife than any jeep or canter you may have been on. Being higher than everything other than the trees gives you a panoramic view. As the elephant does not have to stick to the road and instead moves in and out of the thick forest undergrowth with consummate ease, you experience the forest in a completely new way. Also the tigers are used to elephants and are permit you to come closer than most jeeps. Most photographs of tigers from elephant enable you to capture them in their natural beauty as opposed to the road (if you were on a jeep). However, as far as I know, elephant rides are available only if you are staying at any of the FRH only. If you are staying at the Dhikala bookings for jeep and elephant safaris are right at the FRH itself.
Climate wise Corbett is cold in the winter months. U need lots of woolens as if you are staying at the FRH you should not be expecting heaters to warm your rooms! The cold continues even to end march at least for the morning safaris.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Tiger Time - Bandhavgarh
Having already visited Corbett and Ranthambore (being near Delhi) many times over, we decided to move to Bandhavgarh situated in central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh. For the uninitiated, a brief summary of the place and how to get there. Bandhavgarh is divided into 4 zones: - (1) Tala; (2) Magadhi; (3) Khitauli; and (4) Kallawah. Of the zones, Tala has the highest density of tigers and should be your first choice for booking safaris. The safaris can be booked online here. If you intend to book tala zone, you will need to book in advance.
For people travelling from Delhi a train to umaria is the best way. We took the 8478 Kalingautkal Express which leaves from H. Nizamuddin at noon and reaches Umaria at 5 in the morning. Bandhavgarh (and the nearby resorts) are an hour away from Umaria. The alternative is a flight to Jabalpur and a three to four hour drive. Staying options there are plenty. However, given the weather anytime other than in December end, an air conditioned room is a must. You could check out white tiger lodge (the MP tourism resort) or the FRH both of which are reasonably priced with acceptable food. However if you have money to spare (a lot of it) the Taj Mahua Koti will surely welcome you!
We reached Umaria station in the early hours of the morning when the sky was still dark. We were to stay at the Forest Rest House at Bandhavgarh and they had kindly sent a cab to pick us up. The journey to the FRH itself was a great indicator of the times to come. We had a jackal crossing the road and could distinctly smell a rotting carrion. A brief photo op and then we were back on the road towards the FRH. We actually made to the FRH in such good time that we decided to do a safari. As we had no bookings for Tala zone that morning, it had to be the magadhi zone. Saw nothing. (By nothing actually nothing! - some four birds and 2 deers). But a safari through the jungle is always better than sitting in your room! The next few safaris were all booked in the tala zone. The Tala zone is divided into various zones within itself (numbered from A to D). In the next seven safaris I never by some quirk in fate made it to the A zone. But the rest were absolutely worth it. Never have I seen 11 different tigers in seven safaris and over 25 sightings! I even saw a tiger coming towards our jeep moving in less than three feet away and I still getting the worst pictures on the planet (yeah I can admit it I WAS scared)!
However over the seven safaris I got some of the best shorts I have ever taken (not just of tigers, but beautiful birds as well).The snaps are here!
Bandhavgarh is similar to Ranthamore as both have a fort. However, the forests are very different. Ranthambore is a much drier forest. However, as far as beauty of the forest go, I am still partial to Corbett. However, if you NEED to see a tiger, then pack you bags for bandhavgarh and bandhavgarh alone!
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