Sunday, May 16, 2010

Corbett Safaris

One of the advantages of staying in Delhi is the proximity to Corbett and Ranthambore.


Corbett, situated at the foothills of the himalayas, is the most picturesque of the national parks I have visited. I have been to Corbett thrice and never have I felt "why again".  With my legendary luck at sighting tigers, I had tiger sightings on each of my trips! 


I have stayed at the FRH Dhikala and also at the resorts just outside the park. Without a shade of a doubt, to experience forest one has to stay at the FRH in Dhikala. However, if eating vegetarian food and sleeping on a questionable bread spread with frequent electricity outages thrown in is not your thing, you may consider putting up at the resorts by the side of Kosi River which will provide you with all luxuries. However, with all its discomforts I will still recommend Dhikala as your place to stay. For one it is deep inside the forest, whereas the resorts are outside the gate. Just staying there and listening to the sounds of the forest at night is an experience to treasure even if you do not meet the king of the jungle.


You can book FRH dhikala here. Generally one is given only with 2 nite stay at best. Be warned to book Dhikala FRH at least a month in advance if you are targeting a weekend or any of the cluster holidays. 


Though the most famous, Dhikala is not the only FRH in Corbett in fact far from it.  Corbett is divided into zones and each zone has a gate: 


Tourism zone Entry Gate



Dhikala    Dhangari



Jhirna            Khara,Kalagarh



Bijrani    Amadanda



Sonanadi        Vatanvasa



Domunda      Durgadevi



The Dhikala Zone itself has many FRHs such as Kinnanauli, Gairal, Sarapdhuli etc.  If you do not get bookings, you could check with Field Director, Corbet Tiger Reserve Uttaranchal, Ramnagar (Nainital) - 244715.Tel. : 05947-251489, 251376, 251012 for any of the other FRH in Dhikala zone (or about the FRHs at any of the other zones). 


Easiest way to get from Delhi to Cobett is by a cab.  It is approximately at 5 hour drive (depending at what time you leave and whether you hit any jams).  It takes considerably longer in the winter months.  Driving to corbett at nite during winter is a dangerous proposition.  You should ensure that the taxi has very strong fog lamps.  Last winter's travel to corbett from Delhi took me around 10 hours.  For three hours we just could not drive as the fog was so heavy, even with three heads outside the window (feeling the cold winter air), we could not see anything ahead of us.  The best advice while driving through for is to follow a truck or a bus.  On the road you often find huge trucks turned turtle, which remind you how severely a mistake on the road can be punished. An approximate route map is provided here


When you are in corbett, you realise how tough it is to spot a tiger.  The forest here is a thick forest full of sal trees and thick undergrowth.  So if you spot a tiger, you are really lucky! 


A great thing about corbett is the elephant ride through the jungle.  You come closer to the wildlife than any jeep or canter you may have been on.  Being higher than everything other than the trees gives you a panoramic view.  As the elephant does not have to stick to the road and instead moves in and out of the thick forest undergrowth with consummate ease, you experience the forest in a completely new way.  Also the tigers are used to elephants and are permit you to come closer than most jeeps.  Most photographs of tigers from elephant enable you to capture them in their natural beauty as opposed to the road (if you were on a jeep).  However, as far as I know, elephant rides are available only if you are staying at any of the FRH only. If you are staying at the Dhikala bookings for jeep and elephant safaris are right at the FRH itself.  


If however, you are staying at any of the resorts outside the gates, the bookings are done at the Forest offices at Ramnagar.  Your resort will help you do the bookings for the same and you do not need to pre-book these safaris.  These safaris are mainly for the bijrani zone and not the dhikala zone.  There is a canter which takes you on a tour of dhikala (which is a tour not a safari). 


Climate wise Corbett is cold in the winter months.  U need lots of woolens as if you are staying at the FRH you should not be expecting heaters to warm your rooms! The cold continues even to end march at least for the morning safaris. 

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