Tiger Time - Bandhavgarh

Having already visited Corbett and Ranthambore (being near Delhi) many times over, we decided to move to Bandhavgarh situated in central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh. For the uninitiated, a brief summary of the place and how to get there. Bandhavgarh is divided into 4 zones: - (1) Tala; (2) Magadhi; (3) Khitauli; and (4) Kallawah. Of the zones, Tala has the highest density of tigers and should be your first choice for booking safaris. The safaris can be booked online here. If you intend to book tala zone, you will need to book in advance.

For people travelling from Delhi a train to umaria is the best way. We took the 8478 Kalingautkal Express which leaves from H. Nizamuddin at noon and reaches Umaria at 5 in the morning. Bandhavgarh (and the nearby resorts) are an hour away from Umaria. The alternative is a flight to Jabalpur and a three to four hour drive.

Staying options there are plenty. However, given the weather anytime other than in December end, an air conditioned room is a must. You could check out white tiger lodge (the MP tourism resort) or the FRH both of which are reasonably priced with acceptable food. However if you have money to spare (a lot of it) the Taj Mahua Koti will surely welcome you!

We reached Umaria station in the early hours of the morning when the sky was still dark. We were to stay at the Forest Rest House at Bandhavgarh and they had kindly sent a cab to pick us up. The journey to the FRH itself was a great indicator of the times to come. We had a jackal crossing the road and could distinctly smell a rotting carrion. A brief photo op and then we were back on the road towards the FRH. We actually made to the FRH in such good time that we decided to do a safari. As we had no bookings for Tala zone that morning, it had to be the magadhi zone. Saw nothing. (By nothing actually nothing! - some four birds and 2 deers). But a safari through the jungle is always better than sitting in your room!

The next few safaris were all booked in the tala zone. The Tala zone is divided into various zones within itself (numbered from A to D). In the next seven safaris I never by some quirk in fate made it to the A zone. But the rest were absolutely worth it. Never have I seen 11 different tigers in seven safaris and over 25 sightings! I even saw a tiger coming towards our jeep moving in less than three feet away and I still getting the worst pictures on the planet (yeah I can admit it I WAS scared)!

However over the seven safaris I got some of the best shorts I have ever taken (not just of tigers, but beautiful birds as well).The snaps are here!

Bandhavgarh is similar to Ranthamore as both have a fort. However, the forests are very different. Ranthambore is a much drier forest. However, as far as beauty of the forest go, I am still partial to Corbett. However, if you NEED to see a tiger, then pack you bags for bandhavgarh and bandhavgarh alone!

Oh as a parting shot, try the mahua wine and eat the mahua flower!